Armas

Firearms are a really popular accessory at the desfile hípico.

Desfile Hípico

Desfiles hípicos (horse parades) are very popular in my part of Guatemala. They are, as the name would suggest, simply parades of people on horseback. Last year I participated, but this year my horse fell through (a wild horse from the monte that had never been ridden in a parade before), so I just took pictures. Here are a few.

The original Marlboro Man.

Calor Humano

As a result of a terrifying white water rafting accident last month, a fellow PCV ended up in the hospital in the capital after being transported there by plane. I went to see him, and during my visit I picked up one of the hospital’s promotional pencils.


Herrera Llerandi’s slogan is “Le cuidamos con calor humano,” which I find amusing (like most things). It literally means, “We care for you with human heat.” Sounds a little shady. Actually I would prefer to be cared for with highly qualified doctors and cutting edge technology, but maybe I am just an anomaly.

But this is an instance where a literal direct translation fails. “Calor humano” carries more of a meaning of “kindness” as opposed to “human heat.” And it’s good to know that the folks at Herrera Llerandi are caring with kindness as opposed to killing with it.

It's a Sweater!

My puppy hated me in this moment.

What a pity

Conversation with Emerson, my 7-year-old neighbor:

Em: “Qué lastima que no puede regalarme una pelota.”

Me: “Sí. ¡Qué lastima!”

Niños de Tactic

Agua

Any student of Spanish probably knows that agua means water…well, not exactly in Guatemala.

If you go into a tienda and ask for un agua, the employee will ask you if you want Pepsi, Coke or Fanta. Aguas are sodas in Guatemala. To get water, you have to ask for agua pura (pure water).

But agua pura does not necessarily mean pure water. If I were visiting one of my friends in an aldea and I asked for an agua pura (not that I would ever do that), I would get a glass filled up with water from the chorro, which is anything but pure. Agua potable (drinking water) straight out of the faucet doesn’t exist here (maybe in some fancy neighborhoods in the capital or Antigua?). But fortunately that isn’t much of an annoyance for me since my beverage intake mainly consists of aguas.

Deer Dance

Baile de Venados

The Baile de Venados (Deer Dance) is a traditional Mayan dance thought to have originally been a hunting ritual.

Ahí nada más

The most common response I got when I told friends and co-workers here in Tactic that I was taking a trip to France was, “¡Ahí nada más!” (It means something to the effect of, “Oh, just to France!”) People were amazed that I could just hop on a plane to go to Europe for a wedding, because Guatemalans can’t do that.

For an American there are few countries in the world that are difficult to visit. I’ve traveled to some two dozen countries and never once had to worry whether I’d be permitted to enter. For some countries I had to pay to get a visa, but the process consisted of simply turning in my passport with an extra 2x2 photo, and there was never a question as to if it would be granted. When I decided to go to France, I didn’t check on visa requirements or collect documents to prove my financial soundness; I just bought a plane ticket. An American passport is like a VIP card.

But it’s not so easy for Guatemalans. For most Guatemalans the world is closed off and inaccessible not only due to a lack of resources but for the fact that securing a visa to developed countries, namely the US, is extremely difficult. The United States is this sort of Never Never Land whose overwhelming culture permeates the everyday lives of Guatemalans who, ironically, will never never be able to travel to there. It is this stringent process that makes it so difficult:

A Guatemalan wanting to visit the United States as a tourist first has to go to one of two bank branches to purchase a PIN that costs nearly Q100. With that PIN he has to call an 800 number to schedule a visa interview at the US embassy in the capital. (You cannot call directly to the embassy to schedule this appointment.) The earliest date for which that interview can be scheduled is usually after a wait of 16-20 days.

Then the hopeful Guatemalan must go to Citi Bank and pay an application fee of $131. (This payment is required just to have the chance to get a visa.) He will get a receipt with his name that must be presented at the visa interview.

Now that the Guatemalan has his interview scheduled and his payment receipt, he must get all of his paperwork in order. He must fill out the DS-156 electronic visa application online, print it, and bring it to the interview. And because our Guatemalan is a male, he also has to fill out and bring the DS-157 form. Besides requiring a ton of personal information, the forms have fun questions like these (all were actually under one bullet point):

“Do you seek to enter the United States to engage in export control violations, subversive or terrorist activities, or any other unlawful purpose? Are you a member or representative of a terrorist organization as currently designated by the U.S. Secretary of State? Have you ever participated in persecutions directed by the Nazi government of Germany; or have you ever participated in genocide?”

(Has anyone ever actually checked yes to this? “Oh, I was in the clear until it came to the genocide question.”)

Besides the application forms our Chapin must also bring as much documentation as possible showing his ties to Guatemala. Bank statements, property, house, or car titles, and business or salary information all serve to prove that he will indeed return home instead of stay in the US.

After all this time, effort, and cost, our expectant Guatemalan shows up on time (he can’t be late or his appointment will be canceled) to his visa interview at the embassy where a consulate officer will decide his fate—denied or approved.

I imagine I would be traveling a lot less if I had to jump through this many hoops to enter other countries. But fortunately I don’t have to worry about hoops because I am an American.

Desfile Royalty

Road Trip?

I am currently in Porto, Portugal staying at my Jenna’s parents’ house. Our plan was to road trip from here through Spain and into France over the course of 4 days. We (a group of four) had our route mapped out and spots to stay picked out along with the way.


It was going to be Jenna’s last adventure as a single woman, but of course it didn’t work out the way we had planned. Little did we know it was going to cost over $2000 to rent a car in Portugal and leave it in France. We found one website with a reasonably priced rental only to find out there was an extra 1200 Euro (~$1,700) one way fee after we booked it. Oops, forgot to mention that little charge.

So plan B consists of flying to Marseilles, renting a car there, passing three days exploring the French Riviera, and then heading up to Châtillon St Jean for the wedding. It won’t be the European road trip we had hoped for, but spending some extra time in the Côte d'Azur isn’t that bad of an alternative. La vida es dura, verdad.

We just have to make sure that the bride makes it to her own wedding, and since I am the only person who knows how to drive a stick that responsibility falls mainly on my shoulders. As my mom advised, “Don't drive too fast or be reckless—you will have the bride with you!” (Apparently she isn’t as concerned about my safety.) So if Jenna is not there to walk down the aisle, everyone will know who to blame.

French Wedding

I suppose it can’t really be considered a “French” wedding since both parties involved are American, but it is taking place in France. My friend Jenna is marrying a wonderful gentleman named Josh, who I just had the opportunity to meet this past April. They will be tying the knot in the south of France next week, so I am currently on a plane(s) in route to Europe.

Jenna was my traveling companion in the epic (perhaps that choice of adjective is a little over doing it) Cape Town to Cairo backpacking trip, and honestly I am a little sad that our exciting and adventurous single days are over (well, at least hers). But on the 10th she is going to be embarking on another journey that is sure to provide excitement and adventure, although of a different sort.

Congratulations Jenna and Josh. I am extremely happy for you both.